Swine Flu

I am amazed by how big a deal the swine flu (la gripe porcina) is here. All schools have been closed to prevent it from spreading. That includes San Andres! But, as the director of our program says, "the show must go on". We moved to different classrooms (much bigger and much, much colder) and must sit far apart from each other during class. Anti-bacterial hand gel is being used obsessively. And we've been warned against using public transportation during "rush hour". Some people have even experienced temperature tests entering boliches!

Chinatown

The afternoon trip to Belgrano started with a purpose: Euge and I were going to get matching cartilage piercings. So we took the train into the city and found a random shopping area that happened to have several tattoo and piercing shops. After looking around for a few minutes (getting cold feet in the meantime), we decided that 50 pesos (about 13 US dollars) was just too much. On to Plan B. We met up with Darren, Emily and Jen in Chinatown! Chinatown in Buenos Aires really consists of about two blocks of Chinese shops, restaurants and grocery stores. So we wandered for a bit before finding ourselves (once again!) in a cafe.

Morcilla

Yes, people. I tried blood sausage. It is EXACTLY what is sounds like: coagulated blood, chopped onion, and animal fat stuffed into a sausage casing. Want to taste?

La estancia

One brilliantly cold Friday (the day following Argentina's independence day), we took a group trip to a ranch outside of Buenos Aires. Horses, dancing, leather, silver, space...

What I Miss

1) family and friends
2) having a cell phone plan and not paying 2 pesos/minute
3) free water in restaurants
4) summer
5) guidelines and rubrics for classes

Colonia, Uruguay

There's nothing like a last-minute weekend trip, especially when it's to Uruguay! From the time I arrived, my host mother had told me that Colonia is worth the time and money. I would have to agree. Jen, Willa, Emily, Cande and I packed our bags and headed out to catch a buquebus across the river. After checking into our adorable little hostel ($11 per person per night!) called "El Español", we found a creperia and came prepared with coupons for free liqueur. Time passes quickly when you're amongst good food and good company. After a nearly three-hour meal, we finally asked for the bill and completed the first of many long math puzzles (we paid with Uruguayan pesos, Argentine pesos, and US dollars while in Colonia).

Later Saturday, we explored the small, colonial-style town (hence the name), watched the sun set over the river, and found an adorable cafe where we spent another good amount of time. I had the best submarino of the trip there (submarino: hot chocolate made literally with warm milk and a chunk of chocolate). Then, on our way back to the hostel, we happened upon a jazz concert!

Oh! Almost forgot that we celebrated the 4th of July in Colonia!

The following day, we woke up early to catch some photos of the sunrise. It was a bit overcast, but still beautiful and amazingly quiet. It's easy to forget how fast-paced and over-stimulating the big city can be!

Later Sunday, Cande, Willa and Emily went horseback riding outside of Colonia. Instead of partcipating in that adventure, Jennifer and I found a place that rented golf carts and go-carts out to visitors. It was unreal. We got a go-cart (me without a license!) and literally drove it down the highway along the coast, passing and being passed by regular traffic. Only in South America...

Favorite Argentine Foods

1) dulce de leche in ANY form
2) ice cream (to be ordered to the house!)
3) cafe con leche, especially with medialunas
4) empanadas con queso solo o con queso y cebolla
5) alfajores
6) zapallo (squash)
7) blood sausage (kidding, kidding)
8) dulce de leche

Tango Night

Tango is a huge part of the Argentine culture and the history of Buenos Aires. So our group of 15 gave it a shot one night at a tango club called "El niño bien". Starting with some rather glamorous white masks to protect against the swine flu, we took a thirty minute lesson, which reminded me vaguely of awkward 8th grade dances. We then left it to the more advanced dancers, returning to what we know best (orange juice and fernet, Willa?). Much to my surprise, an older man came to the table looking for a willing soul to strike the dance floor. How'd he know that I can never seem to say no? Let's just say that that little adventure provided a great deal of entertainment for onlookers...

Empanada Party

One night, we had an empanada party (yum) with lots of family to celebrate my host father's birthday. TONS of empanadas of all flavors. My host family tried to prepare me for the craziness that would exist when everyone got together and then congratulated me for surviving afterward. I tried my best to explain that my family is just as crazy (como se dice "food fights" en espanol?) and that I am quite accustomed to these fun, insane reunions.

Nightlife

To be fair, nightlife in Buenos Aires deserves its own blog, not just a single post. But I'll try to do it justice here.

Porteños know how to party. In a pretty classy way. They know how to dance (guys and girls alike) and how to have a good time.

Clubs in Buenos Aires open no earlier than midnight and lines don't really form until around 2:00 am. Then it's a time warp with bands and lights and dj's and dancing. Closing time isn't until sometime between 7:00 and 9:00 am and it is perfectly normal for the average Argentine to stay out that late (early, rather) and catch a train home with commuters off to work. And then sleep the next day away... Fortunately for many students, classes at the public university often start in the late afternoon; this schedule caters well to a thriving nightlife.

I will never forget my first morning in Argentina, when I struggled to get out of bed before noon. I finally awoke and took a hurried shower, worried about being rude and making a terrible first impression. When I found my host mother, I apologized for sleeping so late. The confused expression on her face was priceless. She informed me that noon was not late at all. In fact, she had just woken up and the rest of the family was still sound asleep. I figured this was something I could get used to...